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Ozark Natural Division
(topographic map courtesy of National Geographic)

Latitude: 37 14N Longitude: 093 23W
Above sea level:
1,324 feet

The Ozark Natural Division (known as the "Ozark Plateau") is a large, unglaciated region of greater elevation than the surrounding areas. This plateau comprises almost 40 percent of the state. Characterized by thin, often stony, residual soils, the topography is often very steep. Caves, springs, bluffs, and high-gradient, clear-flowing streams with entrenched "meanders" are characteristic features. Deciduous, pine-oak and pine forests formed the predominant vegetation in pre-settlement times. Glades, some of them extensive, commonly occur where bedrock surfaces. Bottomland deciduous forests are common along many of the streams. The great age and physiographic diversity of the Ozarks make it the region of greatest species diversity in Missouri. This division is divided into six sections.

The Salem Plateau Natural Section is a broad, gentle plain that was originally forested to a great extent but is now characterized by open pastureland and scattered trees. Bottomland deciduous forests remain along many streams.

The Lower Ozarks Natural Section is richly forested and characterized by springs, caves, sinkholes, calcareous wet meadows, glades, clear, high-gradient streams and steep-sided hills with narrow, chert-covered ridges. Short-leaf pine (Pinus echinata) is also characteristic. Streams flow generally southward and include the St. Francis, Black, Current and Eleven Point rivers.

The St. Francois Mountains Natural Section is the area of greatest relief and elevation in Missouri. There are few springs, caves or other karst features in this natural section. The pre-settlement vegetation of pine and mixed pine-oak still predominates.

The White River and Elk River natural sections are both characterized by steep terrain and deciduous forest mixed with some pine. Glades are common, especially in the White River drainage. Construction of reservoirs (Table Rock, Taneycomo and Bull Shoals lakes), has created habitat for a few wetland-associated breeding birds while inundating habitat for bottomland forest species.

The Springfield Plateau Natural Section is physiographically the most distinct in the Ozark Natural Division. Historically, its landform was not highly dissected and its topography, soils, and pre-settlement vegetation were characterized by a mosaic of Osage Plains prairies grading into Ozarks forests. Prairie once occupied about 29 percent of this section, which today is less than 1 percent prairie. Today, this natural section is characterized by fragmented forests, pasture and early successional shrub-scrub habitats.

The physical characteristics described above have influenced the cultural traits that distinguish the Ozarks region. Dr. Milton Rafferty, Professor Emeritus at Southwest Missouri State University, states that defining the Ozarks from a cultural perspective is difficult, at best. However, he identified four traits that help our understanding of the Ozarks' culture.

  • The first trait is that the region is rural in general character. Rural suggests open country, farming and contrasts to city life.
  • The second trait is that Ozark heritage has been strongly influenced by the early immigrants mainly from Kentucky and Tennessee (principally from Scotch-Irish stock) who first occupied the choice lands and established self-sufficient farms. Rafferty points out that because for many years only a few outsiders entered the area, the economic activities, technologies, beliefs and general way of life came to be patterned after that of the first immigrants.
  • The third trait common to the Ozarks is that Ozarkers have an uncommon sense of place. Persons living in the Ozarks think of themselves as Ozarkers and think of non-Ozarkers as outsiders.
  • The fourth trait identified by Rafferty is the relative stability of the social system in the Ozarks as contrasted with the fluidity of social relations that is typical of the United States. Rafferty concludes that these four cultural traits are hardly unique to the Ozarks. They are traits found everywhere to a certain extent, but particularly in rural America. In the Ozarks, these traits are accentuated, drawn together, and combined in unique and interesting ways

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